Kathmandu
After landing in Kathmandu, the first three days were set aside for trek logistics. This included obtaining Annapurna Circuit permits, purchasing domestic flight tickets, and wondering around.
Swayambhunath, Monkey Temple
While in Kathmandu, I seized the chance to visit the fascinating Swayambhunath, commonly known as the Monkey Temple, a spiritual and historical landmark.
Traveling to Besisahar
Day four was the transition from Kathmandu to Besisahar, the origin point for the Annapurna Circuit. I boarded a morning bus for a journey covering approximately 200km.
Besisahar
FIXME: The lengthy travel culminated in an evening arrival at Besisahar. I ventured out to get a feel for the locale and capture some initial impressions.
Besisahar to Bahundanda
The trek officially begun!
Day 1: I started walking from Besisahar to Bahundanda. The journey was filled with breathtaking scenery, though I couldn’t yet catch a glimpse of the mountains in the distance.
Bahundanda to Tal
Day 2: During the first couple of days I planned to walk for around 6-8 hours. Luckily there were plenty of tea houses on the way where I could sit, relax, and enjoy a cup of masala tea. The views got more and more spectacular although high mountains were still hidden behind smaller peaks.
Tal was breathtaking. The town is located beside the Marsyangdi River. Known for its waterfalls, cliffs, and terraced fields. It used to be a frequent resting point for trekkers, although landslides have turned it into a ghost town.
Sun dried corn cobs
Just one example of the diverse range of plants cultivated here for sustenance and trade.
Tal to Chame
Day 3: The trail started taking a serious uphill turn after Dharapani, making for a challenging but rewarding experience. First glimpses of Annapurna came into view, added awe to my journey.
Chame to Upper Pisang
Day 4: The trail offered breathtaking views of the Annapurna range, including the iconic Annapurna’s face.
Upper Pisang
A town with a unique vibe, where I first started connecting with fellow travelers from around the globe. Also marked my initial experience with mild altitude sickness symptoms.
Tibetan Buddhist painting
On my way, I encountered multiple temples painted in vibrant colors.
Upper Pisang to Manang
Day 5: The terrain shifted to a more desert-like landscape as you approach Manang, the largest and last town accessible by 4x4. Also notable for being the final point with medical facilities on the trek.
Manang
A welcome rest stop where I spent two nights, exploring a nearby temple and Gangapurna Lake during the day. The night sky here was remarkably clear, a stargazer’s dream, although I lacked the gear to capture its beauty.
Manang also features a unique cinema screening Himalaya-themed movies and offers daily lectures on dealing with altitude sickness, conducted in English by volunteer doctors.
Dal Bhat
A staple in Nepali cuisine, this dish of lentil soup and rice is a go-to for both locals and trekkers. Simple yet nutritious, it’s often served with a variety of side dishes. The ingredients vary between tea houses, yet it will always keep you fueled.
Manang to Yak Kharka
Day 7: The trek to Yak Kharka was shorter in distance but considerably steeper, signifying a shift in the challenge level as I climbed further up. During my stay in Yak Kharka, I kept myself occupied with a good book, well deserved apple pie and side treks to nearby hills.
Yak Kharka to Hight Camp
Day 8: A brief but steep ascent, that took me around three hours. I reached 4,800m and spent the rest of the day in High Camp socializing with fellow travelers and gearing up for the next day’s early start.
Due to high altitude I could not sleep. It was biting cold too. On the upside, the sky at night was unlike anything I saw, full of breathtaking stars.
High Camp to Thorong La Pass
Day 9: I woke up early, around 4:00am, to a freezing morning. Layered up in all my warm clothes but still felt cold until the sun rose, bringing a dramatic shift in temperature.
Stopped for tea at Thorong La Pass but had to descend quickly due to an intensifying headache, likely altitude-related. Symptoms eased as I descended. Ended the day in Muktinath, where I stayed overnight.
Thorong La Pass to Muktinah
As I came down from the pass, I got one more visual reward: the stunning view of Dhaulagiri, the world’s seventh-highest mountain.
Muktinath was a key stop after crossing Thorong La Pass. This town is famous for its temples. A great place for rest before continuing the trek.
Muktinah to Kagbeni
Day 10: With an extra day in hand due to smooth trekking so far, I decided to take it slower and break the journey to Jomsom. Stopped in Kagbeni, an ancient village that serves as a gateway to Upper Mustang, for a more relaxed pace and additional exploration.
Kagbeni to Jomsom
Day 11: A relatively short trek to Jomsom, the main town in the area with an airport and more facilities. It’s a busy place often used as a stopover by fellow trekkers. I spent one extra day here, exploring the area while waiting for my flight to Pokhara, leaving in two days.
Jomsom to Pokhara
Day 12: A quick yet breathtaking flight through the deep valleys and alongside towering mountains. The transition from the rugged terrains of Jomsom to the lakeside tranquility of Pokhara is almost surreal, marking the end of this trekking.
Pokhara
A serene lakeside city set against the stunning backdrop of snow-capped Himalayan peaks. The natural beauty makes Pokhara a popular destination for post-trek relaxation. I spent two more days here, soaking in the scenery and recharging before heading back to Kathmandu for my flight home.
